2) Export as much nitrates and phosphates as possible (including crud before it breaks down). This means a very good skimmer *constantly cleaned and tuned*. Do frequent water changes with proper syphoning. Provide good water flow (don't forget blasting the rock on a regular basis with the turkey baster). A fuge with macro can help (unfortunately I don't have room). If you can't run a fuge, consider chemical media to remove the phosphate (Phosban, Rowa etc.).

3) Constantly adjust feeding - Don't get stuck on the same exact feeding schedule. If you see no signs of algea, try increasing feedings. Don't increase the amount you feed at one time, but increase the *number* of feedings. Break it up throughout the day (I feed my daily food quota over three different feedings). If you start to see signs of excess algea growth, cut back feeding temporarily by a 1/3. Increase your export efforts. If it doesn't improve, cut back by another
1/3 for a few weeks. When it improves, increase the food back by a third. And so forth. Again, don't increase the amount of food in a single feeding, increase the number of feedings. In fact, try spliting the amount you currently feed into several smaller feedings. Also, I prefer to try matching what the organisms eat in the wild. As a result I feed a larger quanity of "low nutrition" foods (brine shrimp, krill, formula 2, etc.) rather than a small quantity of "high nutrition" foods (such as formula 1). And I never use additives such as vitamins and selcon (except maybe in a hospital tank treating sick fish).

• Done every day
  • feedings
  • check over equipment to make sure everything is working properly
  • blow rocks with turkey baster ~30 min. after lights out
• Done weekly
  • Monday: clean glass, change out carbon
  • Wednesday: clean glass, change out carbon, clean skimmer, clean powerhead sponges
  • Thursday: mix salt water
  • Saturday: clean glass, Water change, change out bag of carbon, test water parameters
  • Sunday: clean skimmer, clean powerhead sponges
• Done monthly
  • add/change reactor media (clean out reactors as needed)
  • syphon out the excess crud from the sump
  • recalibrate pH & Orp probes
  • add a small amount of sand (1-2 baggies worth) to keep sand level constant
• Done every 3 months
  • remove & clean powerheads
  • remove & clean skimmer pump
  • check clamps & connections on the return lines
• Done once a year
  • replace bulbs (yearly for MH, every 6 months for PCs)
  • relace check valves
  • clean return pump & replace seal
  • replace powerheads

I don't stir (the substrate), but I will ocassionally siphon off large particles, debris and other junk on the very top of the sand bed. I have around 30 Nassarius Vibex snails living in the sand bed which keep it stirred up.

The three most important tools in maintanice are the turkey baster, soft bristle toothbrush, and a small diameter (3/8") rigid siphon tube. I blast the rocks nightly about 30 min. after lights are out. Not only does this keep crud from accumulating in rocks, but it also provides a food source for the corals (which are well into their natural feeding cycle 30 min. after lights out). Water changes are not just for changing out water, but is an excellent
form of export if done correctly. When I do a water change, I'm cleaning and and syphoning out as much crud as possible, so when I'm done, I have a tub of the foulest possible water. I start by blasting the rocks with the turkey baster. Your syphon tube should be small enough (~3/8") so that you can finish syphoning the crud before removing enough water for your water change. On the end of my syphon tubing I attach about an 8" to 12" piece of rigid plastic tubing. The tip of the rigid tubing is cut at a 45 deg. angle making a nice point. Thisallows you to scrape off algea and other crud from rocks and other hard to reach places. If a problem area of algea does start to sprout up, I hit it with the toothbrush during water changes. It usually only takes one or two cleaning sessions and the algea stops appearing in the spot.